Adjusting to a new rhythm

Here in Africa we like to think we’ve cornered the market in being laid back. Conceptually, African time is free-flowing, unstructured and cyclical (polychronic – yes, there’s a word for it) – not a straight line (monochronic – read more about this here). If you miss an appointment, it’s not gone forever – tomorrow is another day. But ‘African time’ is a part of life in much of the middle East, Asia and Latin America too. Is this what differentiates developed from developing countries?

This philosophy is much easier to embrace if you’re on holiday of course – and it usually takes a few frustrating days to adapt. This “mai pen rai” sign in Ko Pha Ngan sums up the island’s beat perfectly.  (Thailand 2004)

Hope you're not in a hurry, man...

 

An exciting week

So perhaps I should play it cool and act like this sort of thing happens to me every day, but it doesn’t and I am giddily excited. Last week National Geographic’s Travel site published a submission about Cape Town that I sent them for the Intelligent Traveler blog feature, I Heart My City. Continue reading

Taking a little bit of a destination home with you

The more amazing a travel adventure is, the worse the post-holiday blues are when you return home. It’s hard to let go of the highs you’ve just experienced and go back to reality. I confess I cannot quite bring myself to throw my very dusty Converse trainers in the washing machine… it’s Indian dust! If they’re clean again, won’t it be harder to imagine myself dodging rickshaws in Chandni Chowk or exploring Udaipur’s winding alleys…? Continue reading

Perfect timing

After returning from a trip to Dubai a few years ago, I uploaded about 50 photos of the place to Facebook. Several friends commented, “But where are all the people?!” Sometimes I just don’t want people in my shot – they can distract from the beauty or atmosphere of a place. (More often they are the highlight of my travels.) So I’m the one who has to run to catch up with my friends because I’ve been waiting for the traffic in front of something to clear. Continue reading

Charming language

At home, my job entails being a bit of a grammar nerd. I’m a copy perfectionist and cringe when I see misplaced apostrophes or split infinitives. But when I’m travelling in a country where English is not a first language, mistakes charm rather than annoy me. After all, my Hindi / Arabic / Thai / Spanish / etc. is not exactly flawless (it’s pretty non-existent!).

So, like many travellers, I collect photos of signs. This one, and the building it decorates, is just lovely.

Bring all your dirty cloths here.

Udaipur, India, 2012.

Contrasts

Old and new. Historical and modern. Rich and poor. East and West. A place is always more interesting when two opposites sit side by side. Sometimes it’s a comfortable juxtaposition; sometimes it feels awkward. But it always makes for a good photo.  (Malaysia, 2004)

Fun fact: A scene in the movie 'Entrapment' was shot along this stretch of the Melacca River.

Being more than pleasantly surprised

For nearly a decade I’ve been torn about travelling to India. On the one hand, it’s seemed so exotic and colourful. On the other, I’ve wondered if I’d be able to handle the poverty, dirt and, inevitably, Delhi belly. It’s not exactly the place you’d go to for a relaxing holiday, I thought.

But a country has never daunted me before, so I put on my big girl pants and booked my ticket to Delhi. It’s a cliché, but I have fallen in love with India. The sights, sounds, smells, tastes are all so overwhelming – but so wonderful. Yes, there is terrible poverty. Yes, there is garbage along the streets. But there are also exquisite buildings, quirky signs, incredible food, wonderfully diverse cultures, and so much more. The people I met were without fail an appealing balance of charming respect and playful humour. And the food… it’s heaven for vegetarians! (I even managed to avoid bad a stomach upset.)

So India, I am sorry I judged you before I’d even met you. I will be back, often.

Preparing offerings at the Jama Masjid mosque at Fatehpur Sikri, outside Agra. (January 2012)